Christchurch

Love Christchurch -had awesome digs -a short walk into cathedral square - and we saw our first kiwi (bird, not new zealander).

Caught the gondola fromHeathcote Valley for a spectacular view across Christchurch & surrounds.

Christchurch has tourist trams so we felt quite at home. Did a lap on the tram to get our bearings and then headed for the arts precinct. It is housed in the former university buildings - the uni outgrew the space and moved out and the area has been turned into a brilliant arts precinct. There are many arts and crafts shops, galleries, exhibition spaces, theatres, and the fudge cottage (not a cottage made out of fudge but rather a shop that makes, and sells, fudge. They also do tours of the kitchen - the day we were there we saw them making choc orange fudge (always one of my favourites).

The arts precinct is across the road from the botanic gardens, and the museum.

The museum had an excellent display of maori artefacts and the gardens provided a place of shade while we ate our sandwiches and pondered the rest of the day.

Whilst TappingBetty climes to the top of the Cathedral, I headed to the central library where my collection of library related brochures increased dramatically (and now includes a brochure on what to do if a tsunami strikes.)

Glacier to Greymouth

Well the rain had eased the next morning when we dragged ourselves from our comfy (warm) beds ready to catch the bus to Greymouth to connect with the first of our scenic train trips.

We were catching the TransAlpine train from Greymouth to Christchurch. The trip is 223 kilometres and takes four and a half hours. There are 16 tunnels, and 5 viaducts, the highest being the Staircase standing at 73 metres.

It was overcast and drizzly when the train eventually left Greymouth (almost an hour late for some reason) but the scenery more than made up for that. We spent most of the trip on the open air viewing platform (getting very windswept in the process) which provided us with great views.

There were a lot of track works being carried out which meant that from time to time the train was forced to slow down (good for photo oportunities, not so good for punctuality).

The scenery was spectacular - viaducts, picture perfect river views, a lot of postcard moments. (Soon to be posted to flickr)

The closer we got to Christchurch the better the weather became. When we finally rolled into Christchurch it was sunny and bright and we were very happy campers as we headed for yet some more outstanding accommodation.

A glacier called fox

The weather had cooled and the sky was a tad cloudy as we left Queenstown before breakfast and headed for Fox Glacier and points beyond.

Today's bus was a 12 seater and it was a pretty good dozen also. Apart from us there were 2 cops from Christchurch, 2 french backpackers, an elderly Queenstown lady visiting friends at Fox, a young american missionary, an irish backpacker, a mother and son heading for a craft market.

We had a lot of fun on the 6 hour drive - the weather grew steadily worse the further we got from Queenstown. We stopped for lunch at a salmon farm (salmon, salmon, and more salmon) - where we bonded even more as the rain beat heavily on the roof of the cafe.

By the time we were dropped off at our motel at Fox Glacier the rain had obviously set in for the day. The clouds were low and dark and the mountains were barely visible through the mist.

Our motel totally rocked. I can highly recommend it. It's a 2 minute walk from the main drag (1 minute from the pub).

We got a local guy (Murray) to drive us out to the glacier. He picked us up at the motel and then waited in the carpark while we dragged our sodden selves to the base of the glacier. (He also supplied us with yellow plastic ponchos to try and keep us a tad drier than our waterproof jackets were doing).

There were quite a few tourists, apart from ourselves, trudging grimly towards the glacier. No one wanted to miss the opportunity so yellow plastic ponchos and purloined Bunnings umbrellas seemed the order of the day.

Heads down we trudged past the sign warning us not to stop for the next 200 metres (or someone might hit us on the head with a rock - avalanche warning perhaps - can heavy rain cause avalanches? - yep); exchanging wry, waterlogged grins with the hardy souls making their way back to the car park.

We exhanged bows with the Japanese gentlemen (in suits and ties -see note re: Bunnings umbrellas), wondered at the 3 young guys in boardies, t shirts, and thongs - they were wet, couldn't get any wetter I guess - and finally reached the glacier.

Everything was grey - sky, glacier, horizon, hills, but no matter we were there. I'm sure it would be even more spectacular without rain but it lost none of it's scenicicity in the rain (we just didn't stand there as long as might otherwise have been the case).

Murray had shown us photos he'd taken over the past 30 years which clearly showed how much the glacier had moved during that time - it was truly awesome to gaze upon and we would have really liked to have helicoptered over it, but the weather had grounded all glacier flights - ah well, it was still an inspiring sight.

It was a couple of soaking wet tappers who made their way back to the motel and curled up in front of the heater with books and hot chocolates (instant I'm afraid...Jarrah chocolatte fudge) as darkness came a few hours early due to that danged rain.

Arrowtown

Arrowtown had been recommended to us by so many people that we thought we'd better make the effort and have a look!

We caught a local bus out there and found a delightful (but heavily tourist focused) little town. They had a library which was open in the morning. It was a small library on the corner of the main street (and it featured on a postcard of the achitecture of the town.)

They had a trolley of ex-library books for sale on the front verandah (I picked up a Robert Crais pb for 50c). The trolley was being well and truly picked over by tourists, such as myself, looking for bargain holiday reads.

We then strolled along the main street and treated ourselves to a superb hot chocolate from Patagonia cafe (Arrowtown branch). The hot chocolate is in a huge soup tureen (those big black ones) and when you order a hot choc they ladle it into the mug, add a home made shortbread to the saucer (or the lid of the takeaway container), and voila. It's nice to see the takeawayers getting the same saucer treats as the drink-ins.

Anyhoo as well as a Patagonia cafe, and a Remarkable Sweets shop and a very nice jewellery store, and several galleries (art, photography, craft) and many tourist shops, there is also a chinese museum as Arrowtown was home to many Chinese during the gold rush.

After lunch in one of the many cafe's it was back to Queenstown where we'd planned a relaxing afternoon cruise on the lake.

Dinner was fish n chips (fush n chups) from the kiosk near the Novotel which we ate looking out at the sunset over the lake.

A great day.

Downhill all the way

The boat cruise went for about an hour and three quarters then it was back on the bus for our trip back to Queenstown.

The trip back from Milford Sound to Queenstown took about 3.5 hours, largely in part to young Adam who put his foot down and kept it down the whole way.

Narrow winding roads did not faze him, nor did the thought of speed limits. As a result we were back in plenty of time for a bedtime cuppa with Clyde & Judy who are on a gardens of NZ tour that is being led by their landscape gardener (and ABC gardening expert) son Andy.

It's a fiord not a sound

I forget the difference (they did tell us and I did write it down) but my notebook is over there in my suitcase and I can't be bothered fetching it.

(Research my dears, research)

Anyway we arrived at the cruise centre in plenty of time for our 2 o'clock sailing, our embarkation was slightly delayed while the official cruise photographer took (what turned out to be) a really bad picture of us... (bad hair day on so many levels)

The cruise however was awesome. It included a 'free' lunch of chicken & salad roll & unlimited tea and coffee so that was disposed of quickly and it was off up to the viewing deck to make the most of the glorious day - blue sky, calm water, lovely sunshine (and no library borrowers.... :>)

We saw fur seals basking on rocks in the sun,( the previous day there'd been several dolphin sightings but not our day). There was abundant birdlife and I have to admit that the lake-like feel of the fiord reminded me of Interlaken & lake Thun (including several beach like spots where Miss Ferrars could have stopped a runaway motorboat).

We got wet when the boat (deliberately) sailed in close to several of the many natural waterfalls that occur around the place.

The water was like glass - it was such a superb day to be out on a boat - and the scenery - I wish/hope my photos do it justice (I bought quite a few postcards that capture the scenery way better than I can.

Unfortunately I don't have the words to truly describe the beauty of the scenery, but trust me, it was superb.

Milford Sound

We were collected from our hotel at some ungodly hour for the bus trip to Milford Sound. To my jaded (not fully awake) eye our bus driver (Adam) didn't seem old enough to drive, let alone drive a bus!

Still no matter we headed off on the almost 6 hour drive to Milford.

First stop (some 2.5 hours from Queenstown) was Te Anau for morning tea.

Whilst most of the bus enjoyed a sit down coffee in the cafe, TappingBetty & I grabbed takeaway and did a quick explore of the town (and lake) in the half hour we had to spend there. It was turning into a pleasant day and we had high hopes that the weather would remain calm for our boat ride@ Milford.

One of the good things about this tour was the number of photo stops we got (obviously why it took almost 6 hours to get to Milford).

We were sitting with an English couple who had come to Queenstown to visit their daughter who is working there. This trip to Milford Sound was the only other part of NZ they were seeing (apart from Q'town) during their entire 3 week visit.

The weather was looking most promising - it was cold but the sky was blue and there's lots and lots of sun - perfect.

Queenstown

We are staying at the Rydges Lakefront resort at Queenstown (sounds posh doesn't it?)

On the lakefront is the lavish entry and hotel facade and all us guests enter into the large and well appointed foyer. However after check in we all go our separate ways.

Those of us staying in the 'sleep and go' rooms catch the posh lift to the 6th floor, walk past the restaurant, bar, swimming pool and spa, to the back of the building where we catch the not quite so posh lift to the 9th (or 8th or 10th) floor. The rooms here are utilitarian by Rydges standards. It's fairly obvious that there used to be a motel on the site and Rydges has kept the rooms on the back of the hillside for its cheaper rooms.

No matter.

We still get our newspaper hand delivered and have access to all the Rydges amenities and the location couldn't be faulted (we just don't have the view...)

Day 4. Dunedin to Queenstown

It was with heavy hearts that we waved tear stained hankies and, with many a backwards glance, shouldered our suitcases and headed for Dunedin railway station and our bus to Queenstown.

The railway station is architecturally gorgeous and there is a coffee shop/bar which had a very pleasing and acceptable range of McCallum memorabilia on display.

The bus was over 1/2 empty so we were able to spread out and enjoy the 4.5 hour journey (which included morning tea and lunch stops).

We arrived early afternoon to a Queenstown that was a little bit sunny and definitely warmer than Dunedin.

The stop where we were dropped off was about 1.5 kms from where we were staying but luckily it was all downhill so we made it to the hotel fairly easily. It was a glorious 1.5 km walk, mainly along the lakefront, which made the heaviness of our suitcases almost disappear.

After dumping our suitcases it was back along the lakefront and a gondola ride to the top of Bob's pass for a spectacular view of Queenstown and surrounds. There is an option of a luge ride down (instead of the gondola) but the gondola suited us just fine.

It was this luge option that started us making a list of adventure sports/activities we would not be trying in NZ!

The day came to an excellent end with Tapsister finding a copy of Rebel at the CS for $2 in Whitcoulls, and the even more pleasing discovery of the Patagonia Chocolate Shop with it's supremely excellent hot chocolate.

The Edinburgh of the Southern Hemisphere

Day 3 - Dunedin continued.

Cadbury only took us until mid morning, so we headed for the architectural beauty that is Dunedin Railway Station. It's a stunning building and, from a distance, hard to imagine that it is what it is.

It also houses the Dunedin Sports Hall of fame/Museum, and a gallery with an artist-in-residence.

Then it was off to explore the Art Gallery, Museum, Octagon, quote at the Burns statue, and join a one hour highlights tour of Dunedin. The weather was cold, very,very cold.

We were looking for somewhere to have a late lunch when we stumbled across the Dunedin Public Library. They are celebrating their centenary so I popped in to see what else they were doing to publicise it.

We decided that a brisk 3 km walk to Baldwin Street (the steepest street in the world) would warm us up nicely and help us walk off our visit to (a) Cadbury, and (b) guilt by confection.

Whilst we were attempting Baldwin Street it started snowing, yes really snowing, - the flurry only lasted five minutes or so but that was long enough! By now the temperature was 4 degrees and the snow was followed by sunshine, heavy rain, more sunshine, gusty winds, rain.

We found another, more than acceptable, handmade chocolate shop and forced down (in the interests of research and warmth) a European milk hot chocolate accompanied by some home made fudge. A lovely end to a weatherly challenging day.

Next we're off to Queenstown and the forecast is for 0-9 degrees, with showers, hail, and snow down to 500 feet.

When what to our wondrous eyes should appear...

Dunedin Rocks!

Away to the window we flew in a flash, tore open the curtains and threw up the sash...

When what to our wondrous eyes should appear... but the cadbury factory, directly opposite where we were staying. Talk about a brilliant view from our window...

We started the day with a tour of the cadbury factory - it was awesome. It reminded me of the tours they used to do at cadbury in Tasmania (v.different from the tours at Bourneville in England). You get to put on a paper hat (and a beard snood if you have a beard) and actually walk thru the factory. We saw them making easter eggs - this is the time of the year that the easter eggs are made for next easter - how scary is that?

You also get given quite a few chocolate samples to keep your strength up on the tour. The tour finishes in the gift shop where I may have bought one or two souvenirs of a very good tour.

* with due reverence and apologies to Clement Moore.

Day 2. A caving we will go

Due to my *stumble* yesterday afternoon (tripped over the footpath, and in trying to stop myself falling actually wrenched more bits of me than might otherwise have been the case) it was a stiff & sore fifi who 'limped bravely' out to the rental car for our drive to Waitomo and the glowworm caves.

We left Auckland at some ungodly hour (6.30 AM ! - I'm on holidays fgs!) for the drive to Waitomo and the caves.

The first cave we visited was Aranui. It was raining and we passed a party of older Australians who were on a 3 day walk through the area. We shared a shelter with them while we waited for our guide, and they waited for the rain to ease a little.

We had an excellent guide who explained the history of the cave to us, and told us about the efforts being made to preserve and conserve the caves and then totally flummoxed us by telling us she was going on ahead to open the door and turn on the lights.

Tres amusing.

The cave was awesome - stalactites & stalagmites, interesting rock and rock-coral formations. We were allowed to take photos but my shots do not capture the size and grandeur of the cave. I've had to rely on postcards for that.

Next up was the glowworm cave. This too was very intriguing and interesting. This tour finished with a boat ride thru the cave in pitch black lit only by the glowworms. There is one huge cave where they hold concerts - it would be awesome to see the Christmas Carols Concert there.

As I exited Waitomo with my usual grace and poise I stepped in a pothole on the side of the road and wrenched my other ankle. Am now limping bravely on both ankles! (note - i survived the caves without incidents but I apparently can't cope with footpaths and roads - go figure)

Back to Auckland Airport (via Hamilton and Waikato) as we were flying to Dunedin later in the evening.

Air NZ has just redone it's domestic terminal - it's practically all selfserve, you print your own boarding pass & luggage labels and put your suitcase on the conveyor belt yourself.

By the time we arrived in Dunedin it was 9pm and raining and cold so we threw ourselves and our suitcases into a cab (Driven by the Patricia Cornwell reading Jill) and headed to our hotel.

Arrived at the hotel, let ourselves in, had a cuppa and hit the sack - tomorrow would be another day...

Tapping NZ - Day 1

Melbourne - Auckland

Well day 1 we arrived at tullamarine airport bright and early for our trip to enzed.

At the security checkpoint TappingBetty was (as is usual for her at airports all round the world) taken off to one side and checked for explosive residue, wanded and patted down. I meanwhile was chortling madly as I've long since given up on TB getting thru an airport security checkpoint first try.

By the time we arrived in Auckland it was mid afternoon so we found our hotel, found our rental car, found a chocolate shop and explored Skytower.

We are staying at the Scenic Circle Airedale Hotel in Queen St. (we love RatesToGo) It is a block from the main shopping strip on Queen St and is opposite The Edge theatre/performing arts complex. (it is also just around the corner from the Auckland City Library!). It is also next door to a pub (great pub grub I am led to believe) and has a restaruant/cafe/bar on the ground floor - not to mention being across the road from the bookshop I dare not name - and a couple of doors along from a Gloria Jeans.

Skytower dominates the view from our window so we headed there and watched mad fools (bungy jumpers) throw themselves off the tower. They sort of let the jumpers 'hang' outside the viewing platform window for a few seconds so we got used to looking up from our coffee and seeing a human fly outside the window. There is also a target painted on the ground for the jumpers to aim at - looking down to see a bullseye on the landing deck - hmmm.

We've a couple of days in Auckland at the end where we'll see & do a lot more.

Didn't see any librarians tho'

The Bobbsey Twins go to B'Zealand

I have a suitcase

I have clothes

I need to unite the aforementioned.

The weather channel is predicting temperatures in the low to mid teens (and rain, lots of rain,) for NZ in the next week.

Remove shorts from pile of clothes on loungeroom floor, add another jacket. Re-think shoe choices.

Replace sunscreen with gloves and woolly hat? Do I have woolly hat?

Log onto web to avoid packing and travel decisions.

Procrastination thy name is fifi

btw - travel blogs sheepishly...